Gardening Daily Tips 156

FOOD CROPS . Gardening Daily Tips 156 support from the ArcaMax editors

 

Azalea (Rhododendron (subgenus Azalea))

Read more at http://www.arcamaxpublishing.com/gardening/s-160438-629133#3TM8QBYFiytXKdg9.99

Plant type: Interior Plant, Shrub USDA Hardiness Zones: 5a to 8a Height: 48" to 96" Spread: 48" to 72" Exposure: partial shade partial sun Bloom Color: Pink Bloom Time: Early spring, Late spring, Mid spring Leaf Color: Green Growth Rate: slow Moisture: moist Soil Condition: Acidic, Clay, Loamy, Neutral, Sandy, Well drained Form: Rounded Landscape Uses: Border, Container, Massing, Specimen, Woodland garden Special Features: Blooms are very showy Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

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Q&A: Transplanting Black Eyed Susans Question: We have some Black Eyed Susans that my wife would like to transplant, they are about ready to bloom, when is a good time to transplant them? Is now ok, before they bloom, or wait until after they are done flowering. Answer: It would be better to wait until late August or early September -- after they have bloomed -- to move them, but if you don't mind losing or delaying the blooms you could also do it now. Trim them back and take as large a rootball as possible if you move them now, and keep them well watered until they become reestablished. If you move them in September you could also divide them at the same time. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Q&A: Growing Grapevines for Wreaths Question: I would like to grow concord grapes, both for their fruit and also to use the vines for making wreaths. What growing conditions do the grapes need, and when do you cut the vines for using in wreaths? I don't want to mess up my fruit by cutting the vines off at the wrong time! Answer: Grapes grow best in full sun in a spot with good air circulation and well drained, slightly acid soil of at least average fertility. Since grapes develop only on the current year's growth, the vines are usually pruned back very hard in mid to late winter. This provides plenty of vine for wreath making and other projects. (The vine is also leafless at that time which is good because removing the leaves by hand is tedious.) Whether or not you use the vines for projects, do remove all prunings from the growing area to help reduce any chances of carrying over pests or diseases from one year to the next. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Q&A: Deadheading Clematis Question: I just moved into a new home with a lovely clematis. It is blooming beautifully. Should I plan to deadhead it once the flowers fade? Answer: It is not necessary to deadhead clematis--which is fortunate because deadheading a mature plant would be a huge task! Many gardeners find the seed heads decorative during the fall and winter months, too. Enjoy your plant! Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Tip: Harvest Pole and Bush Beans Daily Don't let the pods get larger around than you little finger or the plant will move into a slowdown phase. Once the plant begins to develop seeds, it has finished its life cycle and will stop producing. Besides, the beans are at their most tender before they produce seeds. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Tip: Protect Yourself from Insect Pests Protect yourself from summer's insect pests and the diseases they transmit. Use repellents and wear long-sleeved shirts and long pants. Check yourself and your children for ticks. Although the likelihood of getting an insect-borne illness is low, it still makes sense to take precautions. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Get Ready for the Newest Summer Movies Whether you're looking forward to Snow White and the Huntsman or Men in Black 3, the ArcaMax Entertainment ezine has all the latest news and reviews to help you decide what to see this summer. ArcaMax Entertainment also has the latest from Hollywood, news videos, and a weekly soap opera rundown for all you daytime TV fans. Subscribe to ArcaMax Entertainment instantly. Find out more before subscribing. -- From the ArcaMax editors Gardening Tips Video CLAAS ARION 400 VietGreenTravel Vietnam Travel and Tourism See more: CÂY LƯƠNG THỰC ;  FOODCROPS.VN DẠY VÀ HỌC TRÊN  BLOGTIENGVIET DẠY VÀ HỌC ĐH NÔNG LÂM HCM DẠY VÀ HỌC TRÊN  BLOGSPOT NGỌC PHƯƠNG NAM Trở về trang chính Trang chủ NLU FoodCrops.VN

Gardening Daily Tips 155

FOOD CROPS . Gardening Daily Tips 155 support from the ArcaMax editors

 

Smoke Bush, Smoke Tree (Cotinus coggygria)

Read more at http://www.arcamaxpublishing.com/gardening/s-160437-398600#kaMqgqL56fQXaQSu.99

Plant type: Shrub, Tree USDA Hardiness Zones: 5a to 8a Height: 120" to 179" Spread: 179" to 300" Exposure: full sun Bloom Color: Pink, White Bloom Time: Early summer, Early spring, Late summer, Late spring, Mid summer, Mid spring Leaf Color: Blue, Green Growth Rate: slow Moisture: uknown Soil Condition: Acidic, Alkaline, Clay, Loamy, Neutral, Sandy, Slightly alkaline, Well drained Form: Rounded Landscape Uses: Border, Container, Massing, Pollard, Screen, Standard, Specimen Special Features: Not North American native, Attractive flowers or blooms Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

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Q&A: Transplanting Dogwoods Question: Could I get some tips on transplanting some native dogwoods to one of my garden beds? I have planted a sapling before but had very little success. Answer: Late spring and summer is a really risky time to try to transplant your dogwood. The loss of roots on such a large plant is very stressful. Combine this with the heat of summer and your chances of success are very low. November would be a better time, as it would allow the tree some time to settle in and begin root growth before the onset of warm weather. When you dig the tree, get as much of the roots as possible. The more the better. Try to get a small seedling. The shock of transplanting due to loss of roots seems to be less devastating to smaller trees. Experts debate the advantage of cutting back the top, but I think that on a dogwood I would not cut the top back as they really don't like being pruned. Dig the new hole only as deep as the plant's root system, wider is okay. I wouldn't amend the soil with anything. Your native soil is fine. Don't put fertilizer in the planting hole. The plant will be trying to establish a new root system, and additional nutrients are not needed until new roots are established. Water the plant in well after planting and keep moist but not soggy this first season. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Q&A: Removing Ivy from Trees Question: Is it harmful to a tree to have English ivy climbiing it? Many of our neighbors have ivy growing up their trees, and it looks nice, but my mom thinks the ivy will kill our tree. Will it? Answer: Ivy can cause all kinds of problems when it is allowed to climb up tree trunks. It can hold too much moisture against the bark, leading to rot. It can cause splitting of the outer bark of the tree due to the shear force of the growing vines. If it's allow to climb up very far, it will become heavy enough to cause stress to the tree and it can act as a sail, catching wind and pulling a tree over. Add this to the potential of strangulation and girdling, and the facts indicate it is wise to remove ivy from the tree. At a minimum, cut enough ivy away to expose the flare of the trunk of the tree where it meets the ground. It would be even better to remove the ivy within several feet of the trunk. After removing the roots and cutting the vines at ground level, pull what you can from the tree. This might mean that you'll have to cut the intertwining vines and pull them off in pieces. Anything you can't reach to remove (including the disc-like pads), will eventually weather away. Don't worry too much about removing the pads -- they won't produce new plants. And, unless a piece of an ivy vine has gotten a foothold in a crevice or other moisture holding spot on the tree, the vine should die off after being cut at ground level. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Q&A: Bamboo Screen Question: I live on the edge of a ridge. I'm 60 feet above the street with a pine-filled strip from my yard to the street right-of-way on a 45% grade. I need a good tall sound and sight barrier along the road. What about a clumping or spreading bamboo? Answer: Bamboo can make a great screen provided you select a hardy, adapted variety. I would strongly recommend a clumping form that will be less invasive. If you want to try a spreading type, you can install a deep, strong, vertical barrier into the soil to prevent bamboo from spreading, but that might be quite a chore on your steep slope! You can check out the American Bamboo Society web site for info on types and characteristics of bamboo species and varieties: http://www.bamboo.org/abs/ However, I think a better alternative is to plant a row of evergreen shrubs and trees, as they will not threaten an invasion and will give superior screening during the winter. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Tip: Fertilize Leeks Give your leeks a side-dressing with a complete organic granular fertilizer to keep these heavy feeders growing well. Sprinkle the fertilizer along the row a couple of inches out from the plants, then scratch it lightly into the soil. Use about a cup for every 10 feet of row. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Tip: Shear Early-Blooming Perennials Some early-blooming perennials, such as nepeta, will produce a second bloom in late summer if you cut them back after their spring bloom. Fertilize and keep weeds at bay, too. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Get Ready for the Newest Summer Movies Whether you're looking forward to Snow White and the Huntsman or Men in Black 3, the ArcaMax Entertainment ezine has all the latest news and reviews to help you decide what to see this summer. ArcaMax Entertainment also has the latest from Hollywood, news videos, and a weekly soap opera rundown for all you daytime TV fans. Subscribe to ArcaMax Entertainment instantly. Find out more before subscribing. -- From the ArcaMax editors

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Gardening Daily Tips 154

FOOD CROPS . Gardening Daily Tips 154 support from the ArcaMax editors

 

Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens)

Jun 25, 2012

Read more at http://www.arcamax.com/gardening/s-160443-760630#8ZprFEojRVYDZFGr.99

Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) Plant type: Interior Plant, Shrub USDA Hardiness Zones: 6a to 8a Height: 72" to 96" Spread: 72" to 96" Exposure: partial shade partial sun to full sun Bloom Color: Green Bloom Time: Early spring, Late spring, Mid spring Leaf Color: Green Growth Rate: slow Moisture: moist Soil Condition: Acidic, Clay, Loamy, Neutral, Sandy, Slightly alkaline, Well drained Form: Rounded Landscape Uses: Container, Foundation, Screen, Woodland garden Special Features: Attractive foliage, Not North American native, All or parts of this plant are poisonous, Inconspicuous flowers or blooms Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

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Q&A: Black Spot Question: What can I use on my tea rose bushes to get rid of Black spot? I have 8 tea rose bushes and only 2 have it. Answer: Black spot is one of the most common diseases of roses. Fungicides will help control it, but you'll need to practice good garden sanitation (prune and remove the most obviously infected canes), and try to keep water off the leaves. Fungicides need to be applied every 7-14 days during the growing season. Some choices include the neem oil based Rose Defense, Funginex, Daconil, Captan, Bravo. I'm afraid black spot is just one of the challenges you'll face when growing roses, but the reward is worth the effort. I don't think there's anything quite as lovely as a garden filled with roses! Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Q&A: Blossom End Rot Question: My tomatoes last season grew nice and big, but just before they were ready to harvest they started rotting from the bottom. What caused this, and how do I prevent it from happening this year? Answer: It sounds as though your tomatoes had blossom end rot, a physiological condition caused by a lack of calcium at the blossom end of the fruit (the end opposite the stem). Even if your soil has adequate calcium, blossom end rot can occur if there are extreme fluctuations in soil moisture. The symptoms--blackening of flesh--take some time to develop, so the damage you see is actually the result of conditions some time back. Remedies include having a soil test to make sure calcium levels are adequate, adding organic matter to a sandy soil to increase its moisture holding capacity, and keeping plants evenly moist, especially during the development of the first fruits. A thick layer of mulch helps maintain soil moisture. Affected tomatoes are still edible. Just cut away the blackened portion. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Q&A: Dead Spots on Lawn Question: My fescue lawn has numerous dead spots throughout. What might be causing this problem, and how can I remedy the situation? Answer: The first thing to rule out is if the problem is being caused by neighborhood dogs who visit your lawn. Dog urine can cause brown spots. Some tall fescues are susceptible to brown patch. Conditions favoring the disease include hot, humid weather; overly wet, overfertilized lawns; and a thick layer of thatch. You can reduce the chance of future outbreaks by watering deeply and infrequently, and allowing grass to dry between waterings. Also, you might want to aerate the lawn to help break down the thatch. Be sure you are not overfeeding with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer. You may also want to test your soil to check levels of calcium, phosphorus, and potassium, since improper levels of these nutrients can encourage the disease. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Tip: Garden Safely Nearly 40,000 gardeners visit the emergency room each year. To avoid injury and other dangers, be cautious with chemicals and natural products that carry potential risks; use a ground-fault-interrupter plug or adaptor with electrical tools; wear clothes that accommodate the weather as well as protective gear such as gloves; stretch before strenuous activity; be mindful of repetitive motions that strain muscles and joints; stay hydrated; and take frequent breaks. Be sure to keep your tetanus vaccination up to date too. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Tip: Foil Tomato-Eating Critters If birds and squirrels are getting to your ripe tomatoes before you get a chance to harvest them, pick the fruit as soon as it begins to change color and let it finish ripening indoors. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

ArcaMax on Twitter and Facebook Like us on Facebook, and follow us on Twitter...this way, you'll know when we add your favorite columns, comics and other features to the ArcaMax line-up. Visit the ArcaMax Twitter page Visit the ArcaMax Facebook page Sincerely, The ArcaMax Editors

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Gardening Daily Tips 153

FOOD CROPS . Gardening Daily Tips 153 support from the ArcaMax editors

Tulip (Tulipa x) Plant type: Interior Plant, Perennial USDA Hardiness Zones: 3a to 8a Height: 12" to 30" Spread: 6" to 10" Exposure: partial shade partial sun to full sun Bloom Color: Green, Orange, Pink, Purple, Red, White, Yellow Bloom Time: Early spring, Late spring, Mid spring Leaf Color: Green, Variegated Growth Rate: average Moisture: moist Soil Condition: Loamy, Neutral, Sandy, Well drained Form: Upright or erect Landscape Uses: Border, Container, Massing, Rock garden, Seashore, Specimen Special Features: All or parts of this plant are poisonous, Suitable for cut flowers Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

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Q&A: Houseplant Recommendations Question: What are the best houseplants for low natural lighting? Answer: Houseplants thrive under varying degrees of light, so you're wise in figuring out how much light will be available in the spot you've chosen, and then picking plants adapted to the amount light you can provide. Indoor plants fall into one of five basic categories in terms of light requirements. They are: 1) Full sun, which is defined as an area with as much light as possible, within 2 feet of a south-facing window. This suits desert cacti, succulents and pelargonium. 2) Some direct sun, defined as a brightly lit area with some sunlight falling on the leaves during the day. Examples are a west-facing or east-facing windowsill, a spot close to, but no more than 2 feet away from an unobstructed window. This is ideal for most flowering houseplants. 3) Bright but sunless, an area close to but not in the zone lit by direct sunlight. Many plants will grow well in this area, which generally extend for about 5 feet around a window which is sunlit for part of the day. A large sunless windowsill may provide similar conditions. 4) Semi-shade. This is a moderately lit area, within 5-8 feet of a sunlit window, or close to a sunless window. Only a few flowering plants will grow here, but it's suitable for many foliage houseplants. 5) Shade. Defined as a poorly lit area, but bright enough to allow you to read a newspaper during several hours of the day. No flowering plants will grow here, but many foliage plants, such as Aglaonema, Aspidistra and Asplenium, will grow here. The difference between northern light and southern light is the intensity and duration. South and west exposures are the most intense, north and east are slightly lower on the scale, but can provide bright enough light to keep many plants growing. Each location is unique and many plants that reportedly don't like certain exposures may very well thrive where they shouldn't. Use the guidelines on the plant tags or in the catalog descriptions to help your place your plants so they'll receive the right exposure. Hope this information helps you choose just the right houseplants. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Q&A: Camellia Buds But Does Not Bloom Question: I have a camellia bush which appears to be quite healthy and is loaded with buds, but the buds will not open. Why? Answer: Camellias have a reputation for setting more buds than they can open, so bud drop is be a natural phenomenon, especially if your plant is otherwise healthy and growing well. However, bud drop can be caused by overwatering in the cool months, or underwatering in the summer. Bud drop can also be caused by spells of very low humidity. Monitor your plant for signs of ill-health, and after flower buds form, thin clusters at branch tips to one or two fat flower buds, leaving the slender leaf buds alone. The remaining buds should open into beautiful, large flowers. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Q&A: Arborvitae Culture Question: My 3-year-old, 4-foot-tall arborvitae look terrible. The branches are long and somewhat bare near the trunk and they just don't have that bright green healthy look they had when I bought them. I occasionally give them a shot of fertilizer in the spring and summer. I also tie them up to protect them in the winter. Should I be pruning them too? Answer: First of all, I'll describe some of the plant's requirements. Arborvitae should be planted in fertile, moist, well-drained soil. They like full sun, though light shade is acceptable. (In very shady spots they'll lose their internal foliage and become airy and open.) Certain cultivars are particularly susceptible to winter damage in your zone, despite winter protection. Now let's talk a bit about pruning. When the tree is small, pruning is generally corrective, such as pinching buds and redirecting branches to get the plant to grow in a strong, attractive shape. In the prime of life the shrub would probably benefit from some corrective pruning for rejuvination, beauty or usefullness. In its old age, you just want to keep it healthy enough to live long, and well. At three years, I would assume yours fall kind of in between "young" and "prime"! This means you need to be helping it look good. Evergreens make their growth from buds formed the preceeding year. Proper pruning or shearing temporarily stops the active growth of the large new buds, but stimulates the sprouting and growth of many of the smaller ones that lie dormant all over the branches. Because of this, when you shear off the new growth, the tree's energy which would normally be directed towards those few large, buds, now is redirected into the thousands of little twigs, and you force the tree to grow bushier! For the best results, begin the first shearing soon after the growth starts in the spring. Don't allow the tree to make a lot of growth before you shear it, or the smaller buds will remain dormant. Also, when you cut during the early part of the growing season the cuts will heal quickly and new buds will form where the cut was make. These new buds will grow in the spring, hiding the shearing wounds. If you shear too late in the season, the newly formed buds will be cut off leaving unsightly cut stubs showing all year. Finally, consider mulching the plants each spring with a layer of compost. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Tip: Protect Seedlings From Drying Sun and Wind The lighter weight row cover fabrics can protect seedlings until they are up and large enough to make it on their own. These covers also help retain soil moisture by reducing desiccation from the wind and sun, aiding young seedlings in getting off to a good start. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

Tip: Remove Mosquito Breeding Areas Remove mosquito breeding areas by getting rid of standing water in your landscape. Every few days, empty plant saucers, replace water in pet dishes and bird baths, and dump water that has collected in objects such as old tires. Print | Comment | Tweet It | Facebook It

ArcaMax on Twitter and Facebook Like us on Facebook, and follow us on Twitter...this way, you'll know when we add your favorite columns, comics and other features to the ArcaMax line-up. Visit the ArcaMax Twitter page Visit the ArcaMax Facebook page Sincerely, The ArcaMax Editors

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Food Crops News 106

FOOD CROPS Food Crops News 106 (Bản tin Cây Lương thực Quốc tế)
CHÀO NGÀY MỚI hoangkimvietnam https://sites.google.com/site/hoangkimvietnam/

 

Farmer takes crops to new heights
OCRegister
LAGUNA BEACH – In a quarter-acre lot tucked into Laguna Canyon, Erik
Cutter is feeding his neighbors food he says is fresher, healthier and
safer than anything else available in Southern California. Alegria Fresh is
the first hydroponic, vertical farm ...
<http://www.ocregister.com/news/farm-370467-food-fresh.html>
See all stories on this topic:
<http://news.google.com/news/story?ncl=http://www.ocregister.com/news/farm-370467-food-fresh.html&hl=en&geo=us>

Food or fuel?
Atlanta Journal Constitution (blog)
The debate: Should the nation's corn crop, given the current market, be
used to produce food or fuel? By Mike Giles. The perfect storm that poultry
and livestock producers have feared since the federal ethanol mandate was
implemented in 2005 has arrived.
<http://blogs.ajc.com/atlanta-forward/2012/09/05/food-or-fuel/?cxntfid=blogs_atlanta_forward>
See all stories on this topic:
<http://news.google.com/news/story?ncl=http://blogs.ajc.com/atlanta-forward/2012/09/05/food-or-fuel/%3Fcxntfid%3Dblogs_atlanta_forward&hl=en&geo=us

Court blocks canola crop expansion in the Valley
Bend Bulletin
On Friday, the Oregon Court of Appeals — siding with specialty seed
growers and food activists who believe canola will contaminate other crops
— blocked an attempt to expand the areas where it can be grown. Earlier
this summer, the Oregon Department ...
<http://www.bendbulletin.com/article/20120905/NEWS0107/209050370/>
See all stories on this topic:
<http://news.google.com/news/story?ncl=http://www.bendbulletin.com/article/20120905/NEWS0107/209050370/&hl=en&geo=us>

Popcorn Crops Feel Midwest Drought Squeeze
Investorplace.com
Fallout from the lingering drought in the Midwest could include more than
just higher food prices, it could lead to dwindling supplies of popcorn. As
farmers watch their crops wither in the heat, grocery store chains and food
companies are scrambling ...
<http://www.investorplace.com/2012/09/popcorn-crops-feel-midwest-drought-squeeze/>
See all stories on this topic:
<http://news.google.com/news/story?ncl=http://www.investorplace.com/2012/09/popcorn-crops-feel-midwest-drought-squeeze/&hl=en&geo=us>

Eat organic anyway
Pocono Record
The scientists based their observations on myriad studies of various food
crops, pesticide use and others. They found that little evidence exists
that eating organic foods provides better nutrition or better health. The
few measurable differences ...
<http://www.poconorecord.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20120905/NEWS04/209050311>
See all stories on this topic:
<http://news.google.com/news/story?ncl=http://www.poconorecord.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article%3FAID%3D/20120905/NEWS04/209050311&hl=en&geo=us>

The extreme food price shock
Climate Spectator
The price hike has been largely due to the massive heatwaves and droughts
that have swept across the United States and eastern Europe over the past
few months, causing havoc for farmers, destroying crops across the
continents. The Food Price Watch ...
<http://www.climatespectator.com.au/commentary/extreme-food-price-shock>
See all stories on this topic:
<http://news.google.com/news/story?ncl=http://www.climatespectator.com.au/commentary/extreme-food-price-shock&hl=en&geo=us>

Fears UK could face food crisis after bad weather destroys global crops
Scottish Daily Record
SHOPPERS face soaring food prices as extreme weather ravages crops
worldwide, a report claimed yesterday. Oxfam claim the full impact of
climate change on the cost of food is being underestimated and warned
consumers everywhere will suffer because ...
<http://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/scottish-news/fears-over-food-crisis-in-uk-1304099>
See all stories on this topic:
<http://news.google.com/news/story?ncl=http://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/scottish-news/fears-over-food-crisis-in-uk-1304099&hl=en&geo=us>

=== Web - 1 new result for [food crops] ===

Discard flood-damaged food crops - LSU AgCenter
(Audio 09/10/12) Hurricane Isaac may have damaged food crops in our
landscapes. Any fruits, vegetables or herbs that were flooded should be
discarded.
<http://www.lsuagcenter.com/news_archive/2012/september/get_it_growing/Discard-flooddamaged-food-crops.htm>

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